There are many different types of leather out there. Smooth leathers, textured, suede, etc.
Different leathers have pros and cons, as well as uses. When it comes to leather care, understanding which leathers need which products helps. Whether you're working with leather shoes or leather furniture.
Different leather types benefit from having different leather care routines. Understanding what leather you have will help you know what product you need to keep it looking its best!
This post will help give you an overview on leather types and some of their differences.
Whether you are dealing with scratches, a stain, or daily maintenance, this guide will help you find what you need for optimal protection and maintenance.
The below chart gives a visual representation of this article. The majority of products we recommend are the Medaille D’or (MDO) line from Saphir. Some are Beaut De Cuire (BDC).
This guide is intended for real leather, not faux leather.
Lastly, regardless of leather type: Every leather shoe needs a shoe tree and every shoe needs to be brushed! Don't store leather goods in direct sunlight where possible. These are easy ones.
Here is a link to a PDF copy of this chart for easier viewing. You're welcome to download it for free if you'd like.
SMOOTH LEATHERS
Smooth leather
Allen Edmonds Wooster Penny Loafer in Dark Brown Smooth Calf
This is the most common of type of leather you’re going to see in shoes (especially dress shoes). This is leather from tanned hides.
There are several different tanning processes depending on the desired finish. It’s overwhelming made from calf skin, which is the finest, softest, and smoothest. Calf skin has very tight and smooth pores.
It’s strong and has great tensile strength making it perfect for slightly more rigid applications.
Occasionally you’ll find other smooth leathers such as cow/steer hide (older cows) that are thicker. This is usually very robust but less smooth and polished.
The tight pores of smooth leathers make them easy to work with. They can be taken care of easily and you have the most products available to you. With the proper care these types of leathers can last you many years. Hydration is key for longevity (you can learn more here). Keeping them looking good is easy with cream polishes.
Most common for shoes, boots, belts, and wallets. If you have a leather bag or leather jacket there is a good chance it's this.
If you are dealing with leather seats, whether that is automotive leather, or leather upholstery, they are likely this type. Aniline leather, made from calfskin, is popular for it's strength, longevity, and wonderful looks. It's often found in furniture and cars.
Horse Saddles would also be treated as smooth leather. Some might be made from calf, cow, or steer depending on their use and look.
Lastly, Lanolin and mink oil are great for smooth leather. They help hydrate it and keep it supple. Saphir Leather Lotion contains Lanolin, and Saphir Renovateur contains mink oil. So between those two you have your bases covered.
Products for smooth leather
Cleaning: Saphir Reno’mat, Saphir Cleanser, Saphir Renovateur
Conditioning: Saphir Leather Lotion, Saphir Nappa Leather Balm, Saphir Pommadier Polish, Saphir Renovateur
Polishing: Saphir Pommadier Cream Polish, Saphir Pate De Wax Polish, Saphir Mirror Gloss
Protecting: Saphir Super Invulner, Saphir Pate De Luxe (Heels & Toes only)
Recolouring: Saphir Renovating Recolourant Cream, Saphir Juvacuir Recolouring Cream
Pebble Grain / Any “Grained” Leather
Crockett & Jones Islay Boot in Brown Pebble Grain Calf
This is common for more rugged boots and bags. This is very often smooth calfskin (as above) that has been pressed. Imagine big steel dyes or stamps that are pressed into the leather after the tanning process.
There are many different patterns for this type of leather. Pebble Grain is the most common. It’s characterized by small dimples throughout, like you would see on a basketball or football. You will also see Hatch Grain or Cross Grain which are the same idea with different patterns.
These impression in the leather make it harder to scratch and less likely to show marks and scuffs. You’ll usually find this on high boots or chukka boots, as well as bags and accessories.
All the products that apply to smooth leather apply to Pebble grain leathers.
One thing to keep in mind is that grained leathers are more casual than smooth leather. That is why you see them used less in dress shoes and more in boots. While you certainly can be a mirror shine on a grained leather, you wouldn’t want to. We recommend using very light amount of Paste or Wax polish (anything with carnauba wax or beeswax) on your grained leather. Usually a cream polish is all you need for a healthy glow!
Products for Pebble Grain leather
Cleaning: Saphir Reno’mat, Saphir Cleanser, Saphir Renovateur
Conditioning: Saphir Leather Lotion, Saphir Nappa Leather Balm, Saphir Pommadier Polish, Saphir Renovateur
Polishing: Saphir Pommadier Cream Polish, Saphir Pate De Wax Polish, Saphir Mirror Gloss
Protecting: Saphir Super Invulner, Saphir Pate De Luxe (Heels & Toes only)
Recolouring: Saphir Renovating Recolourant Cream, Saphir Juvacuir Recolouring Cream
Cordovan
Alden 975 Long Wing Blucher in Colour #8 Shell Cordovan
Cordovan is a special and unique equine leather. Often referred to as “Shell,” it is made from a small subcutaneous membrane found in horses. It is then tanned to finish.
Cordovan is unique in that it has incredibly tight grains and pores. It is so dense that it doesn’t crease like normal smooth leather; instead it develops its characteristic “rolls.”
Given how dense this leather is, it is hard to dye evenly. Due to this, you most often see it in black or dark burgundy (referred to as #8 when from Alden shoe makers. Pictured above in the opening photo in a pair of Alden 975 longwings in Colour #8).
These deep colours take the the shell well. Alden, Allen Edmonds, Crockett & Jones, and Meermin are some popular high quality shoe makers that regularly use Shell. There are many other smaller boutiques that work with this type of leather though.
Shell can be made into almost any colour though, like shades of brown, or navy, or green. All these are harder to dye evenly and are thus more rare and often more expensive. It is not uncommon to see small variation in the colour on Cordovan shoes right from the factory.
Cordovan is also an extremely fatty leather, in part due to its nature and in part its tanning process. This makes it easy to take care of. Often all you need to clean it is a damp cotton cloth to wipe away dust, grit, grime, etc. Follow up with some hydration and a layer of Cordovan cream and you’re set.
The high fat content and extremely tight pore structure means that it is very easy to shine. Doing the above and brushing vigorously with a horse hair brush will bring out an impressive shine that is hard to match with other leathers. It is also extremely long lasting when taken care of correctly.
*Side note: sometimes Shell can have a white residue on the surface. This is known as "bloom." This is some of the fat coming to the surface of the leather. Wiping with a damp cloth and/or brushing is all you need to get rid of it. It's not a bad thing at all!
Neatsfoot oil is the perfect conditioner for Cordovan, given the above. It's a deep moisturizer that very fatty. Some people will apply it staight. Saphir's Cordovan Cream is made with Neatsfoot oil and is a good way to get your dose.
Cordovan is used to make up most of the same products you would find in smooth calfskin. Shoes, boots, wallets, cases, bags, and other accessories.
One of the major downsides of Cordovan is that you can only get one small membrane per horse, which makes it an extremely expensive leather. On top of that only a few tanneries in the world are capable of finishing it to a high standard.
Products for Shell Cordovan Leather
Cleaning: Saphir Reno’mat, Saphir Cleanser, Saphir Renovateur
Conditioning: Saphir Leather Lotion, Saphir Nappa Leather Balm, Saphir Cordovan Cream Polish, Saphir Renovateur
Polishing: Saphir Cordovan Cream Polish, Saphir Pate De Wax Polish, Saphir Mirror Gloss
Protecting: Saphir Super Invulner, Saphir Pate De Luxe (Heels & Toes only)
Recolouring: Saphir Renovating Recolourant Cream, Saphir Juvacuir Recolouring Cream
Nappa / Deerskin / Delicate leather
Diemme Deerskin Suede Sneaker in Tan. If you're looking for specific instructions on working with suede sneakers you can learn more here.
Nappa is a smooth leather made from goat. It is much softer and more delicate than traditional calfskin leather. This thinner and softer leather makes it extremely supple and comfortable. This makes it desirable for footwear, especially loafers.
It Is also found in gloves and other lighter accessories.
Given its thin and delicate make up, it should be treated a bit more gently than other smooth leathers. We don’t recommend strong cleaning products for Nappa.
We advise you use the more gentle Nappa Leather Balm. It's a leather conditioner which is specially formulated for delicate leathers.
Deerskin has many of the same properties as Nappa, though made from Deer. Given the similarities we’ve added Nappa, Deerskin, and all other soft and delicate leathers together.
The idea with these is to take a minimal approach to intervention. Note that we generally do not recommend Saphir Renovateur for delicate leather. Using it here and there is likely fine but it is too strong for regular use.
If you take care of your delicate leathers, especially conditioning them, they'll last a long time. They aren’t as robust as calfskin or cordovan and won’t last as long. What they lose in longevity they make up for in supreme comfort, pliability, and weight.
Products for Nappa / Deerskin / Delicate leathers
Cleaning: Saphir Cleanser, Saphir Renovateur (Dont use too often)
Conditioning: Saphir Nappa Leather Balm, Saphir Pommadier Polish
Polishing: Saphir Pommadier Cream Polish, Saphir Pate De Wax Polish, Saphir Mirror Gloss
Protecting: Saphir Super Invulner
Recolouring: Saphir Renovating Recolourant Cream, Saphir Juvacuir Recolouring Cream
TEXTURED & OILED
Rough out
Viberg Boondocker in Natural Chomexcel Rough Out
Rough out is leather that is sanded to give it a texture. It can be made from different types of leathers. Most commonly it will be made from calfskin or cowhide. The former being softer and more fine.
The leather is sanded roughly to give it a very rough texture (as the name implies). Think of it like normal suede but more shaggy. The little “hairs” that are created by this process are called the nap. The nap on rough out is the longest, most robust, and more textured.
This gives a unique appearance to the leather and makes it very rugged. This is most commonly found on boots as it suits this style. Think of a suede boot that lends itself to being worn in the elements and beaten up. Viberg, a popular Canadian footwear company has a wide range of boots available in rough out.
Care for this type of leather is the same as suede. You don’t have to be as delicate. The Suede Eraser and Suede Shampoo will be your best friend on this type of leather. That said, the rugged style of rough out often means that leaving it with some dirt and wear on them looks good!
*In our guide above Dubbin Grease is listed as an option. Please note that if you have this type of leather and use Dubbin Grease you will be making it an “oiled” leather. This will dramatically and permanently change the appearance of your boots. They will be substantially darkened and will have a different texture. This is a desired affect for some as it gives a certain aesthetic. Ensure this is how you want to proceed before doing so. Rough out does not NEED to be greased, oiled, or “dubbed” at any point. This is completely optional. Here is a link to a pair of rough out boots before and after using Dubbin or grease on them.
Products for Rough Out
Cleaning: Saphir Gommadin Suede Eraser, Saphir Omni’Nettoyant Suede Shampoo
Conditioning: Saphir Renovating Spray, Saphir Dubbin Grease** (See note above)
Polishing: N/A
Protecting: Saphir Super Invulner, Saphir Dubbin Grease** (See note above)
Recolouring: Saphir Renovating Spray
Brushes: Saphir Crepe Suede Brush, Saphir Horse Hair Brush
Suede
Crockett & Jones Cavendish Loafer in Snuff Suede
Suede, like rough out, is leather that is sanded to give it texture. It is sanded down finer than rough out giving it a much finer finish and texture.
The “hairs” on suede, also known as the nap, are medium to short in length. There will be some variance in the nap depending on the maker and desired finished.
Suede can be made up of almost any type of leather. It's most often made from Calfskin, but you could have deerskin, goat, cowhide, etc. . Different leathers will give you different finishes.
While suede can seem intimidating, it is actually very easy to care for. Regular maintenance is similar to that of other leathers: Ensure it is clean and hydrated and you’re good to go.
Cleaning suede usually involves using soap. Think of cleaning the nap like cleaning your hair. (Hence the name Suede Shampoo). Lather up, rinse, let it dry, and you’re good. For quick touch ups the Suede Eraser works very well.
Since you cannot use lotions on suede, the conditioning comes in spray form. On top of that, you don’t have to worry about regular polishing.
We find many clients lean towards suede due to its handsome texture and low maintenance time. Regular brushing is usually all you need unless it becomes soiled. A crepe brush does an amazing job at cleaning suede and realigning the nap. A regular horse hair brush works well for regular brushing as well. We recommend both.
Products for Suede
Cleaning: Saphir Gommadin Suede Eraser, Saphir Omni’Nettoyant Suede Shampoo
Conditioning: Saphir Renovating Spray
Polishing: N/A
Protecting: Saphir Super Invulner
Recolouring: Saphir Renovating Spray
Brushes: Saphir Crepe Suede Brush, Saphir Horse Hair Brush
Nubuck
Nubck is like suede in that it is sanded leather. For Nubuck, the leather is sanded down to a very delicate and fine finish. The “hairs”, also known as the nap, are short to very short in length.
This results in an extremely smooth yet textured finish. Its suede’s more delicate and smoother relative, almost velvet like in texture.
The same idea as suede applies to nubuck, only more gentle. You want to brush regularly and keep it clean. With Nubuck more so than the other textured leathers, we recommend protecting spray. This means there is less working of the nap.
As below we recommend Saphir’s Super Invulner Spray. Super Inulner spray is such a safe formula they recommend it for any fabric and textile, even silk! So it is safe for more fragile surfaces like nubuck.
That said, also like suede, if treated properly nubuck can still be a robust and durable material.
Products for nubuck
Cleaning: Saphir Omni’Nettoyant Suede Shampoo
Conditioning: Saphir Renovating Spray
Polishing: N/A
Protecting: Saphir Super Invulner
Recolouring: Saphir Renovating Spray
Brushes: Saphir Crepe Suede Brush, Saphir Horse Hair Brush
Waxed / Oiled / Chromexcel (CXL)
For superior protection from the elements and stains, these leathers are coated or saturated in fat. This fat has a waterproofing element. Great for rugged use in climates that have lots of rain and/or snow and moisture.
The additional protection comes from creating a hydrophobic (or waterproofing) layer. This keeps water, salt, and dirt from penetrating your shoes or boots. This is what bookmakers had before Gore tex material was around!
The fats used will differ depending on the maker and the desired effect. Oils and waxes are the most common. Chromexcel (also known as CXL) is a leather that has gone through a tanning process that leaves residual fat in the leather. It is a fairly popular choice with lots of North American makers.
These leathers can be oily to the touch depending on the level of treatment they’ve received. It is often found in boots since the rugged finish works well with that look. It creates a unique finish that is also great for accessories.
You can take leather goods and saturate them with oil yourself using the right product. If you want the above superior resistance. Note that once a leather item is waxed/oiled it is permanent. There is no going back.
Smoother oiled leather such as CXL will benefit from Saphir's Oiled Leather Cream. More textured oiled leathers will benefit from Suede Renovating Spray.
Products for Oiled Leather
Cleaning: Saphir Cleanser
Conditioning: Saphir Oiled Leather Cream, Saphir Dubbin Grease** (See note above)
Polishing: N/A
Protecting: Saphir Super Invulner, Saphir Dubbin Grease** (See note above)
Recolouring: Saphir Renovating Spray, Saphir Oiled Leather Cream
Brushes: Saphir Horse Hair Brush
EXOTIC / UNIQUE LEATHERS
Patent Leather
Patent leather is generally made out of calfskin. It’s classified as a “correct grain” leather in the sense that the grain or finish of the leather has been modified. This is what gives it its extremely shiny finish. Note that some low quality leathers are made into corrected grain finishes. The best way to ensure you have good patent leather is to buy from a company that you can trust.
Patent leather is finished to give a unique high shine. The extreme gloss finish is normally worn for formal events, such as weddings and black tie events. Often patent footwear is worn with a tuxedo or other formal black tie attire.
Given the finish on the leather and their infrequent wear, there isn’t much to be done for maintenance. Saphir BDC makes a cleaner conditioner for when yours need a touch up. Regular brushing and use of shoe trees should be enough for day to day maintenance in most all cases.
Products for Patent Leather
Cleaning: Saphir Vernis Rife Patent Leather cleaner
Conditioning: Saphir Vernis Rife Patent Leather cleaner
Polishing: N/A
Protecting: N/A
Recolouring: N/A
Brushes: Saphir Horse Hair Brush
Crocodile / Alligator / Snake Skin / Ostrich / Etc
Wallet in Black Crocodile
These exotic skins can range in greatly in their make ups, finishes, and dyes. Different makers can finish these leathers completely differently depending on the desired outcome.
Almost always these are specialty leathers meant for products that are used sparingly. Shoes, bags, jackets, etc. made out of these leathers are not normally meant for daily use. This helps with longevity.
Each animal will also give each product its own unique characteristics. You can polish the heels and toes of your shoes or boots if desired. The beautiful and unique finish of these exotic leathers is best left without any polish. They speak for themselves!
The best approach is to be delicate and protect your products in advance. Saphir makes a cream specially formulated for reptile skins. This is what we recommend. Coupled with regular brushing and cleaning with a damp cloth.
Products for Exotics
Cleaning: Saphir Cleanser (Do not use on delicate exotic leather goods)
Conditioning: Saphir Medaille d’Or Reptile Cream
Polishing: Saphir Pate De Wax Polish, Saphir Mirror Gloss
Protecting: Saphir Super Invulner
Recolouring: N/A
Brushes: Saphir Horse Hair Brush
Nontraditional Leather care products
A quick note on some of the less traditional products we see recommended.
When it comes to conditioning, people will sometimes recommend using things such as coconut oil, olive oil, sweet almond oil, etc. Food grade oils. This is not a good idea since these can go rancid.
It is true they can be a conditioner, however they expire shortly after use and will do much more harm that good. Whatever you use, make sure you use something formulated for use in shoes.